My first show with my drawings is in a week and a half. I am making all my own frames because the wood is free. I ordered glass in bulk and everything is going swimmingly, until I started putting everything together.
What do you use to back the picture in the frame? I was thinking of using foam core board, but it is too wide and won't fit. So I've been using poster board. That just doesn't seem stiff enough. Maybe because of how I'm closing the back? I've been using glazier points, but they don't stick out far enough (over the back of the drawing) to really hold everything is as secure as I'd like.
Okay so the two main questions are: What do you use to back the picture and mat in the frame? What do you hold everything in with?
I apologize for my embarrassing lack of correct terminology, but this whole framing business is new to me.
I'll attach photos of one of my framed pictures so you can see what I'm talking about.
Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks!
Replies
Thanks for the input everyone!
I did do a lot of research on frames and couldn't find any economical frames that would match the quality of frames I can make myself. Just because the wood is free doesn't make it bad, I just lucked out. I also think it adds some interest and a conversation talking point that I custom make all my own frames. I don't have to base my style around the frame, the frame is based on my style. :) If people decide to switch out the frame after they buy it then that's fine. I plan to offer different finishes on my website after my fall shows wrap.
Yesterday I went to the Ben Franklin store in my little town and talked to the framing guy there. What I help! He is going to back all of my frames for me for next to no cost. He uses a framing stapler to secure it all. I just had him back ten pieces today. If people actually buy my work (fingers crossed) then I will look into buying my own framing stapler down the road.
I think foam core is going to work well, especially for the large pieces. I just need to make my rabbet deeper.
Thanks Robert for the tip on how to cut the foam core smooth, that sounds like a great idea. And I do my best to avoid bleeding on my work, it does take away from the overall effect somehow. :)
Of course you can always use the line that you've put your life's blood into your work, or that you really sweated blood to get the piece done ;-)
Ha ha ha - that's funny!
One problem you have is cutting the foam-cor smoothly. Get a long metal ruler with a cork or rubber back, measure and mark your cut lines. Hang the foam-cor just over the edge of a table or work bench, and score the the foam-cor with a box knife using a new blade, using the ruler edge as a cutting guide. The trick is to slightly pull the blade against the ruler so it doesn't wander off the line. Don't attempt to cut through in one pass. Go back, applying more force this time, and cut deeper. Depending on your strength, this second time may do it or one more time may be needed. Do it this way and your cuts will look machine-made.
You can also angle the glazier points down a little and mash into the edge of the foam-cor a bit if you need to. A point driver would take a lot of stress off doing this and be a lot safer. Use a back stop that's clamped or anchored to your work bench. The last thing, actually never, is to hold the frame with one hand inline with your screwdriver while you're trying to set a glazier point. If the screwdriver slips, it will be in the middle of your palm and the blood will ruin your work =8-O
Like Mark said. You have to use a material that doesn't warp. Matboard will warp, as will poster board which is even thinner. Standard would be foam core which comes in two thicknesses. And maybe back it with Kraft paper to keep moisture out.
I think your problem started with free wood for frames instead of researching a frame that you could use for years and base your style around. For the most part, given a choice, I would say that people would prefer to purchase unframed and have the frame match their décor anyway.
It took me years trying different frames and I finally gave up and only offer my photographs matted but unframed. I only use framed for display.
UMS is the probably the largest framing supply company.
http://www.unitedmfrscatalog.com/home/index.htm
You want to use something like this for shooting brad nails into the back of the frame to keep the glass, art, and foam core in:
http://www.unitedmfrs.com/cart/detail.cfm?item=4287
Larry Berman
http://BermanGraphics.com
412-401-8100
The most common and most economical frame backing is 1/8" or 3/16" foamcore. I prefer and recommend people use 3/16" foamcore since it cost the same as the 1/8" but is less likely to warp and tends to be a little more sturdy. Some frame mouldings do not have enough rabbet to allow 3/16" inch so that is when you use 1/8". If the rabbet is still not large enough there are offset clips that allow the contents to project out of the back of the frame even more. We sell some but our smallest offset clip is 1/4". This video shows how our customers assemble our wood frames: http://www.framedestination.com/wood_picture_frame_inst.html