WE ARE GOING TO HAVE A MARINE BATTERY WITH US FOR ALL SHOWS-ELECTRIC IS NOT ALWAYS AVAIL., & IF IT IS, IT IS TOO EXPENSIVE! SOMETHING WAS POSTED A LONG TIME AGO ABOUT THIS BUT WE WERE HOPING THERE ARE POSSIBLY "NEW" IDEAS ABOUT MARINE BATTERY SET-UPS THESE DAYS??! THANK YOU FOR ANY SUGGESTIONS~STEVE & I WOULD APPRECIATE THEM! KATHLEEN & STEVEN

You need to be a member of Art Fair Insiders to add comments!

Join Art Fair Insiders

Votes: 0
Email me when people reply –

Replies

  • https://siliconlightworks.com

    Save yourself the headache and look at this light system.

  • I just bought a deep cycle agm marine battery from amazon - 100ah for $160 - and pairing it with a charger and inventor I got there as well. Plus the battery box. I'm running two sets of led lights, each set pulls 21 watts so if my calculations are right, the battery should be enough for a two-day show without a recharge. We'll see. 

    • Fletcher, you have the right idea.

       Others need to add it up. It is simple math.  The one unit recommended only handles 12AH.  One 8 watt bulb will, likely, not put out significant lumens.  

      The system I designed puts out 6,600 lumens at 5,600K, distributed evenly along 30 linear feet (three walls of a 10x10 booth). It runs on 12vdc, draws about 60watts. I power it with an option of either 110V transformer or direct 12VDC. from my batteries. I set this up with dimmers, this allows me to reduce the draw and adjust for other lighting sources (sun).  However, worst case scenario is draw of about 5 Amp. I run from a 55AH battery. This yields a day at the show with an overnight charge. I use 2, deep cycle AGM batteries, which gives me a 2 day run. Never died on me yet. Temperature operating range -25~+60 °C. If running from AC it draws .545 Amp, so it will be way under anything the show would care about. In fact, you could likely piggyback with a neighbor without any problem at all. The lighting is waterproof. So are all the connections I made. I have not bothered making modifications to the batteries or a case for them as that has not been a concern. Batteries are heavy. I could save weight and get more power via going to LI or a better battery technology. However cost would be higher.

      I can charge and run most of this via my solar panels, also. One panel puts out 30watts @ 12vdc.

      Don't guess at what power requirements you need. A simple Ohm's law formula... Watts = Amps x Volts.. use this to determine your needs. Find out what color space you desire. Closer to 6,000k is closer to bright white, also sun light or what is called "cool white", basically more blue.  Closer to 2,000k is soft white, warm white, basically more yellow. Figure out what color "white" light shows off your work best.

      Figure out what distance from your work and how much light is needed - this will be your Lumens. 

      The rating on your bulbs will tell you the lumens output and watts draw. Add up how many bulbs you need to light up all. Add all the watts. Put it into the formula. Use 12 as the volts for most batteries that you would acquire. This will tell you the Amps. Then get batteries that will have an AH (amphour) rating greater than your amps x the amount of hours you want to run without recharge.

      Some will chime in about drawing down below 50% etc. I don't want to debate it. I've been doing this in real life without a problem.

      Remember as a measure of light needed, to work this out going by Lumens or LUX. DON'T go by Watts.  Watts is NOT a measure of light. 

  • (Forgot to add the link to the previous post) Try this.   These will actually jump start a normal sized car.   Use one per light (8W LED that's equivalent to 40-60W tungsten)  will last 6-8hrs between recharges.  Recharges from any USB source like you wall sockt-USB charger. 

    WalMart - T66 12000mAh Portable Auto Car Multifunctional Jump Starter Power Bank Battery~~

    http://tinyurl.com/kwpmryg
    • THANKS FOR THE LINK MONTE-THIS WILL BE VERY HELPFUL!

  • Here's what we use.  These will actually jump start a regular car.   They are slightly larger than a mnas rear blue jeans pocket.   You can either buy 12vDC LED lights and run direct, or you can put an inverter on these and run 120VAC led lights.  I do not recommend the inverter /120ac route as it is not efficient.  At the price of these simply put one on each light.  They will power a 8W LED bulb for 6-8hrs (8W LED is equivalent approx to a 50-60W normal bulb)

    • Monte,

      Where are DC LEDs available? Skipping the inverter makes sense.

      • I get mine from superbrightleds.com  the link -->

        http://tinyurl.com/lfge3ph

        Simply get a normal clip on shop light (the cheap round metal hood ones) cut off the plug and attach a regular 12dc auto type connector.  It is dead simple, but if you haven't done it ask almost any car/truck person who wires trailers for directions.

        • Many thanks. Skipped a lot of unnecessary steps to get exactly what I wanted.

    • HI MONTE~SO NICE OF YOU TO HELP US WITH THIS INFORMATION & I LOVE YOUR SENSE OF HUMOR ALONG WITH IT-WE ALL NEED THIS (ESPECIALLY THIS TIME OF YEAR APPLYING FOR SHOWS!) I WILL PASS THIS TO STEVE & HE WILL GREATLY APPRECIATE IT! HOPE TO SEE YOU DOWN THE ROAD AND YOUR WORK AS WELL!!

This reply was deleted.