My current photos are unfortunatly not something I would be brave enough to send to any judges. Does anyone have recommendations on the best type of camera or any suggestion that might help me get better photos of my work. I recently hired a photographer but he photoshoped the shots so much that they didn't look real.
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Those are fatastic shots! That's what I'm talking about. I'll give it try. Thanks for you input.
Donna
Mark Rogers said:
I am not sure how translucent your panels are but you might consider back lighting them where you have something like a white cloth with a flash behind it or a softbox to light up the pane from behind. I have two examples of wind glasses that I shot this way. If they are only semi translucent then you might use a combination of back and front lighting. In the case of these wine glasses I could not use any front light since it would just create glare.
I am not sure how translucent your panels are but you might consider back lighting them where you have something like a white cloth with a flash behind it or a softbox to light up the pane from behind. I have two examples of wind glasses that I shot this way. If they are only semi translucent then you might use a combination of back and front lighting. In the case of these wine glasses I could not use any front light since it would just create glare.
I know three effective ways to photograph stained glass.
1 - Narrow aperture meaning very shallow depth of field so that the background is entirely out of focus. The background should also be non distracting as in a solid color. If you're shooting in a natural setting, use the sky as the background. Make sure no shadows hit the background. Narrow aperture means shooting with the lens wide open. If the lens is a 2.8 lens, that's what you would set the camera on either using manual exposure or aperture preferred with the lowest ISO the camera is capable of.
2 - Black background. set far enough behind the piece that you can light it from behind to show off the color in the glass. The black background keeps the photograph simple. This is the technique that jumped out at me when I observed the Fort Worth jury. Though the other technique is non distracting, the black simplifies the image to the point that nothing exists but the glass.
3 - White background but not allowing any shadows from the lights to hit the white inside the image that the camera captures. The easiest way to do this is to hang a wrinkle free white sheet on the side of a building in the sun and suspend the glass in front of the sheet but in an area that isn't in direct sun.
Replies
Donna
Mark Rogers said:
http://www.pbase.com/lila161/image/37982414
http://www.pbase.com/lila161/image/21783115
Cheers,
Mark
Frame Destination, Inc.
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1 - Narrow aperture meaning very shallow depth of field so that the background is entirely out of focus. The background should also be non distracting as in a solid color. If you're shooting in a natural setting, use the sky as the background. Make sure no shadows hit the background. Narrow aperture means shooting with the lens wide open. If the lens is a 2.8 lens, that's what you would set the camera on either using manual exposure or aperture preferred with the lowest ISO the camera is capable of.
2 - Black background. set far enough behind the piece that you can light it from behind to show off the color in the glass. The black background keeps the photograph simple. This is the technique that jumped out at me when I observed the Fort Worth jury. Though the other technique is non distracting, the black simplifies the image to the point that nothing exists but the glass.
3 - White background but not allowing any shadows from the lights to hit the white inside the image that the camera captures. The easiest way to do this is to hang a wrinkle free white sheet on the side of a building in the sun and suspend the glass in front of the sheet but in an area that isn't in direct sun.
Larry Berman
Digital Jury Services
http://BermanGraphics.com
412-401-8100