I was wondering about people who buy originals from art fairs.  If they are sure they want a painting and wish to purchase it right then, do they leave the tent with it or set up a delivery date?  Do people really want the hassle of walking around with it or leaving in it their hot car?  My best painting and best deal is a 24"x48"x2":canvas, which got me wondering about this topic.  I have two cars right now and the painting does not fit in either one!

Secondly, a lot of the art fairs I've looked into have requirements for selling prints.  One fair wanted 80% originals and another one said no reproductions at all.  By the 80% rule, I could have 20 originals and only 5 prints!?!  I would prefer to sell only originals but economically that seems like a bad idea for a painter at outdoor festivals.

I have a few more questions, but they will have to wait until later.

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  • Back to your framing or not question----sell standard frame size prints and let the customer get the frame. By standard size, I mean 8x10, 11x14 and 16x20. Don't make your customer have to purchase a custom frame, it drives the total cost to the patron up. The cost of framing can be quite prohibitive these days. I just passed up three incredible digital photos that I really liked because they weren't standard.

    The reason not to frame--everyone's taste is different. I frame all my pictures in a room or on a wall with the same color frames. Your brown frame is not going to work with my black-framed pictures. I do not want to absorb the cost of the frame you provided. (i have more art to buy)

    Everyone has their own ideas how a piece of art should be displayed. I may love your work but I prefer you not frame it for me.

    The backing should be as thin as possible yet still support the work. Some frames don't allow for the space of matting and it is difficult to secure the piece inside the frame. I have cracked glass by tightening a thicker mat.
  • I use Happifeet which attaches to the bottom of each leg. You need about 50 lbs per foot. I had no luck with water bottles and was not interested in making PVC pipe weights. I don't trust the PVC weights swinging around.
  • They have to go on the inside attached from the top and anchored to the legs so they don't sway and pull the canopy over. You can't put anything outside the booth or it ends up in your neighbor's space at shows that only give you 10x10.

    Larry Berman
    Digital Jury Services
    http://BermanGraphics.com
    412-401-8100
  • Where do you put the weights? If you're asking questions like that, you need to walk art shows and look at how artists display their work.

    Larry Berman
    Digital Jury Services
    http://BermanGraphics.com
    412-401-8100
  • Where exactly do you put the water at: inside the tent or on the outside? Do they normally give you any room on the outsides of the tent for the weights?

    Allisonn said:
    I am no expert. However I have used a gallon of water at each corner and it does the trick. Best of
    all you can drink it later.

    I agree to not frame small prints. I float them on Foam board with linen tape (the kind you have to lick to make stick). I also put a dab of acid free glue on the tape where it sticks to the mat. Cutting the foam board and rigging it on is time consuming. Go slow and use newsprint when making cuts so you don't get dirt on the clean board.

    for the real small prints i get free gator board at the local frame shop that they have put in the recycle bin.

    I don't put them in bags. I have them shrink wrapped for $8 bucks a pop. I'll have to look into the bags.

    James Sewell said:
    I was also wondering how others weight their tents? I have a few options on hand, but I'm having trouble imagining where exactly to put the weights. I have either sand bags or buckets and lifting weights that I might be able to utilize. I have to set up tonight and/or tomorrow morning and I kinda put this detail off until last minute.
  • I was also wondering how others weight their tents? I have a few options on hand, but I'm having trouble imagining where exactly to put the weights. I have either sand bags or buckets and lifting weights that I might be able to utilize. I have to set up tonight and/or tomorrow morning and I kinda put this detail off until last minute.
  • Hi James,

    I agree with Larry about framing small prints, there is not much profit in small, and small is pretty much equal in labor to large and pretty close in material cost. I mostly display 20X26 frames, that said, I am willing to make a 12X16 frame for a buyer that has a space issue and loves my frames.

    About frames: Not everyone will agree, but I use custom wood frames for much of my work and I market this to patrons as custom frames. I sell a lot of custom wood frames. When you go to custom wood frames, cost can be an issue unless you do much the work yourself. I don't chop or joint the moldings but I do everything else. I discovered that if I buy the molding direct from the a molding company and bring the sticks to a framer, I can usually get a very good deal (I get frames chopped and jointed for $10 per frame). That keeps my framing cost down considerable.

    My theory is that retail is all about presentation and perceived value. If want to sell to an affluent clientele then I have to provide quality and convenience (and of course good art).

    There is also a portion of my clientele base what would prefer quality black metal frames (nielsen). For that, I go to Frame Destination (logo on the right column). They are a first rate company. BTW, you can get the Clearbags from them at a less expensive rate then going directly to the company.


    James Sewell said:
    I'm also at a point where I have to decide my print runs this week. I wanted to do primarily limited edition prints and keep the print run fairly low, however, I also would like one or two paintings to have an unlimited run, a few products that I could matte and frame for an 8x10" size and sell at a fairly reasonable price. My question is in two parts: First, what are some pros and cons relating to the above thoughts? Secondly, given the situation above, is it alright to use cheaper frames that from all appearances look nice, or would this devalue me? (keep in mind cheaper frames for unlimited 8x10print run)
  • Larry's suggestions are right on the money: I speak from experience! (If I'd read his information before I got into this biz a few years ago I'd have saved a thousand bucks or so, and about as many headaches.)

    I'll add only that you need to determine what you'll use for backing board (foam core vs. matboard) BEFORE you order your ClearBags. The company offers two thicknesses; getting foam core-mounted prints in the thinner bags is almost impossible.

    And this: I know that delivering your work to the client can seem like a pain. But you can make in an "event" that your customers will never forget, and they'll become repeat buyers. I bought a piece at Year 2 of Cherry Creek Art Festival. The artist and his wife delivered it the next day, along with a bottle of wine, and we spent half an hour talking about how he created the piece. Over time, I bought two more works from him.
  • Given that I'm a photographer, not a painter selling reproductions, what I say may not be 100% applicable.

    I would never sell smaller prints framed. There's no percentage in it and it will only require extra expense and work on your part to prepare. I only offered my largest size framed and all sizes matted in browse bins. Given a choice and if priced correctly, people would probably prefer to purchase unframed about 90% of the time anyway.

    To adhere the print to the back of the window mat, I recommend hinging using acid free framer's tape. Do a search for Framers Tape II.

    Besides the hinged matted print, you also need a backing in the clear bag. http://clearbags.com
    For a classier presentation, foam core is fine. If you need to put more prints in the bin, mat board as a backing takes up less space and allows you to have 50% more prints in the bin.

    Some painters sell reproductions unmatted with just a foam core backing loose (not attached) in the clear bag. It's best to decide what you want to do before making an investment in inventory that you'll later regret.

    Larry Berman
    Digital Jury Services
    http://BermanGraphics.com
    412-401-8100
  • One more question I have is about the unframed prints most 2-d art booths sell. I'm aiming at getting a variety of prices: originals, a few framed prints and a browse bin like you mentioned above. My question is how these unframed, matted prints are put together. Most prints seem to have a backboard, is the print attached to the backboard by tape or by a particular adhesive? Is the matte attached to the print or backboard? I hope I made this question clear enough.

    I'm also at a point where I have to decide my print runs this week. I wanted to do primarily limited edition prints and keep the print run fairly low, however, I also would like one or two paintings to have an unlimited run, a few products that I could matte and frame for an 8x10" size and sell at a fairly reasonable price. My question is in two parts: First, what are some pros and cons relating to the above thoughts? Secondly, given the situation above, is it alright to use cheaper frames that from all appearances look nice, or would this devalue me? (keep in mind cheaper frames for unlimited 8x10print run)
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